What I’ve Been Missing

So after living here for exactly 2 years, 4 months, and 22 days, I finally went out surfing. Even though I tired out before even getting to the breaks, and the recent weight I put on was about sinking my board, and I couldn’t catch anything because my arms were like rubber and I totally lost what little skill I ever had at surfing to begin with over the past couple of years, it was still a great time. And I had that same feeling I had when I’d go out almost every morning second year of college at sunrise to catch whatever was there: that for that time someone is out there, nothing else matters, and even though there may be some shit going on in life, being out in the water has this affect on someone to make him forget all of that, and even afterwards make it all seem not so bad – and makes one realize that just like the waves, good ones will come and go, bad ones will come and go, you may catch them, you may not, but it’ll just keep on going, and if you keep looking at the one you should have caught, or just had, you’re just going to get passed by (or worse, thumped into the reef) by the next one.

This is why I moved here. This is why I need to get into shape and be able to get out and just forget life for a while without having to drink anything, or worse.

Now if you’ll excuse me, I’ve got some Point Break to watch.